Amazon India Couture Week 2015: Gaurav Gupta presents "Silt & Cipher"

The Inspiration: If we could sum up the breadth of Gaurav Gupta’s work in just a few words it would be ethereal, visionary and avant garde. So it wasn’t a surprise that this season, Gupta found inspiration in both the natural (silt) and the mystical (cypher). To convey the mood of the collection, Gupta built an elaborate set that looked like an enchanted forest and the models had their hair and face dusted in shimmering silver and gold to resemble nymphs and fairies. The show was presented in collaboration with jewelry label Outhouse, which provided statement headpieces and ear cuffs for the show.

The Collection: This was a much stronger collection than we’ve seen from the designer in seasons past. Although, it featured many of Gupta’s staple silhouettes like sari gowns, mermaid lehengas and sculptural gowns, the workmanship was finer, the silhouettes sleeker and the execution, more refined. Gupta is also known for the beautiful textural details on his clothes and this collection featured the zardozi, threadwork and 3D detailing to beautiful effect. Our favorite pieces from the collection, however, were the newer silhouettes he introduced, especially the blouses made in a creamy silk material, which were stunning!

The Verdict: If we could offer the designer any advice it would be to venture away from what he’s already shown before, namely the sheer paneled sari gowns and the mermaid silhouettes. It was fresh and original when he first introduced them five years ago but now it just seems dated. He’s got so much more to offer as a designer as he’s shown with this collection. Below are a few of our favorite looks from the show.