Naeem Khan may have become an instant fashion sensation after Michelle Obama wore his gown to the first White House State Dinner with Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh but his story is anything but that of an overnight success. Born into a fashion family that was in the business of embroidery in India, it was an indelible part of his lineage. However, it was a fortuitous meeting with American designer, Halston, that changed the course of his life and brought him into New York City’s fashion fray. Though, Khan can most certainly be described as an American designer, his success lies in his masterful ability to merge Indian craft and technique with Western form and construction. It was fascinating to learn the extent to which India is an inspiration and influence in his work. But what was most striking about Khan was his genuine love for his work and appreciation for all that he has achieved.
Fashion industry veterans Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are known for their polished, elegant style making them the go to designers for Bollywood A-listers like the Bachchans and the Roshans as well as being a favorite of British actress Dame Judi Dench. So, it was quite a surprise when the duo, who were selected to close Delhi Couture Week, commenced the show with male dancers in gold, sequin shorts performing a series dance acrobatics in tune to Prince and Lady Gaga before finally laying down in various contortions across the runway. Not what I expected.
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Tarun Tahiliani promised a bridal extravaganza and an extravaganza is what he delivered, albeit on a much smaller scale than intended. An outdoor baraat, complete with an elephant, which was to kick off the show had to be canceled due to logistical issues but the fashion event held inside the Emporio Mall in Vasant Kunj went off seamlessly. A three story haveli and elaborate mandap formed the centerpiece of the show and mannequins wearing pieces from the collection were arranged to resemble a wedding procession. Dancers and musicians, who performed during different parts of the show, added an old world charm as models sashayed out to various styles of music.
Her name may not be as well known outside of India like her contemporaries Manish Arora or Sabyasachi Mukherjee but Anamika Khanna is an extraordinary talent worth getting to know. There’s nothing jazzy or kitschy or avant-garde about her designs and it’s that lack of artifice and gimmick that makes her work stand out. Her design sensibility, choice of fabrics, and construction are always flawless and what I love about her work is that there is nothing extraneous in her designs. Every detail and embellishment only add to the finish and refinement of the garment and do not in any way detract from its design.
Manav Gangwani’s collection was a Swarovski crystal confection inspired by the movie “An Affair to Remember.” The clothes were indeed pretty and romantic with lots of shimmery saris and lenghas to please any starlet. There was, however, an element of excess to the collection. A sari does not need to be bedazzled to every inch of its fabric to be saleable and couture does not mean extravagant or over the top. Yes, it’s about creativity and workmanship but underneath all the pretty sparkle there has to be good design and construction. While Gangwani did show some beautiful pieces, the designer summed up his design philosophy to the press after his show when he said “Why not bling? Everyone loves bling. People who say that bling is tacky can’t afford it.” Thoughts?
Video: Gina Mathew. All rights reserved.
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Truth be told, I knew very little about designer Gaurav Gupta before I attended his show and had wondered about his inclusion in the lineup of designers for Delhi Couture Week. It wasn’t until I did a bit of research that I learned that Gupta is a graduate of the prestigious Central St. Martins College of Art and Design in London and his graduate collection was awarded the Future of Couture trophy at Altaroma Altamoda, Rome Couture fashion week. He then went on to work with designers Hussein Chalayan and Stella McCartney before returning to India in 2006 to launch his own label.
Manish Malhotra showed what he does best at Delhi Couture Week–pretty clothes with lots of sparkle and glam. Not one to push fashion boundaries or risk alienating his Bollywood star clientele, the collection was safe and similar to pieces he has shown before. The show did, however, have a distinct Spanish theme which was more obvious in the choice of music rather than the clothes, although some of the lengha skirts appeared to be flamenco inspired. Overall, the collection had some beautiful pieces, although, I would have loved to have seen the designer take the Spanish theme a bit further and create some one of a kind pieces that would have really represented a couture collection.
Video: Gina Mathew. All rights reserved.
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Ace fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee officially kicked off Delhi Couture Week in the capital last night with a patriotically tinged show inspired by the “essence of India.” The show began with a singing of the national anthem followed by a video montage, opening with a scene from Satyajit Ray’s, Aparajito, which was also the title of the designer’s show. Scenes from movies such as 1947 Earth, Peter Brook’s Mahabaratha, Italian film Malèna and Mira Nair’s Kama Sutra, played in the background as models walked down the runway in pieces made primarily in khadi, the designer’s fabric of choice. But the simplicity of the fabric did not in any way diminish the richness and beauty of the clothes, which featured long, embroidered tunics over full lengha skirts imparting a Mughal feel to the collection.
How has Indian fashion changed over the last 100 years? If the sari’s 5,000 year existence is any indication it should come as no surprise that invasions, colonizations and partitions have done little to change India’s indigenous fashion heritage. Although, regional differences in dress were clearly more defined during the early part of the century, it’s heartening to know that the sari’s timeless style crossed the boundaries of class and culture and continues to thrive today.
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Indian weddings are synonymous with bejeweled brides, luxurious threads and extravagant parties so it is only fitting that designer Tarun Tahiliani would incorporate these elements into his Couture Bridal Exposition– a four day, multi-event affair to be held at Delhi’s luxe DLF Emporio Mall later this month. This is the second year that the designer is presenting a bridal exposition and the theme of this year’s event is “The Procession.”
